Katutura (Herero for "we have no permanent place") is the black township of Windhoek. Unlike its South African counterparts, Katutura is deemed relatively safe by day if you stick to the northern areas.
driving to Katutura
Victory, one of the staff at the Chameleon, owns a Shebeen in Katutura and invited a group of us staying at the Backpackers Lodge for some drinks. We all hopped into the back of a bakkie and headed out to Katutura. On the way, we stopped at the Rotatura market and tried some of the delicacies! The grilled meat, which is dished out on a newspaper with a pile of seasoned salt, aside from being a bit chewy, is quite good. Then there was the matter of the home brew. Served in a not-so-entirely-clean plastic jug, this concoction is made primarily from Mahangu nuts and leaves something to be desired. I took a conservative swig and passed the jug onto the next willing participant.
at the market
Katutura sprawls over a vast amount of ground. I had no idea that greater Windhoek was this large. Past the slightly more upscale brick and mortar dwellings, dilapidated shacks stretch as far as the eye can see. We drove down dusty roads with no names, turning right and left in what appeared to be a random order. I quickly realized that I would have a hell of a time trying to find my way out again. We drove up one final hill and stopped. We had arrived at Victory's Shebeen!
The people are friendly, greet us with smiles and the kids are dancing to the groove of the music. Although some are just learning to walk, these kids have rhythm! We drink a few bevies, listen to music (the brave ones dance) and chat with the local characters.
These are the type of experiences I thoroughly enjoy. Immersion into the local culture paints a much better picture of Africa and its people. Definitely a memorable evening!